Natural Flea & Tick Treatment Remedies for Pets - Diatomaceous Earth


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Traditional dog and cat flea and tick preventative treatments are toxic to us and our pets. Many veterinarians recommend these toxic chemical topical flea and tick treatment preventatives (Click HERE to Read "Are 'Spot-On' Flea Killers Safe?") and collars. These traditional flea and tick treatments are killing pets, some within a matter of hours after applying the flea/tick collar, others within a few days.

Food grade diatomaceous earth is OMRI (Organic Material Review Institute) listed, does not poison our pets, and simply dehydrates fleas and ticks that come in contact with it within 72 hours. Food grade diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled in your home carpeting, on dogs, cats, and other animals, applied in their bedding, and in all dry outdoor areas that fleas congregate. If your pet currently has fleas, it is essential to feed food grade diatomaceous earth daily at double the recommended daily dose to address the tapeworms your dog, cat, ferret, or other pet will have from ingesting fleas.

Using traditional flea and tick poisons doesn't make sense. Chemical pesticides are designed to kill bugs and weeds, so putting flea and tick poisons in or on your beloved furry dog or cat's body is complete insanity. These toxic flea preventative treatments do NOT make your dog or cat smell bad, so the fleas and ticks do not want to hitch hike on your pets, they poison your pet's body - skin, blood, brain, kidneys, liver, lymphatic system, and then when the flea or tick bites them, it kills them. Some people get rashes and have allergic reactions to petting dogs or cats who have been treated with these topical flea treatments.

Believe it or not, some animals just don't get fleas or ticks, regardless of where they live, what parks or shows they go to, etc.

Up until 1995, we fed Nutro Natural Choice Plus and cooked chicken, garlic, veggie stew every day. Our canines NEVER had plain dry kibble, but always had cooked meat with their meals. We used to have the annoying stress of dealing with canine fleas. The vet advised to use Frontline, Advantage, BioSpot and similar treatment products. Back then, we used beneficial (parasitic) nematodes, sprayed into the lawn and garden areas to kill flea larvae, but since we traveled to parks and beaches regularly, we used the topical flea poison treatments to prevent bringing more fleas into our home and yard. One of our canines, would constantly scratch at the base of his tail, but upon checking him, I'd find NO fleas.

We tried brewers yeast and garlic, but it did not keep fleas away from our furry guardians. Late 1995, we started feeding a completely raw diet, NO kibble. We moved out to the toolies on acreage with lots of brush and wildlife. Spring and summer came and went and we had NO fleas. In fact, I noted that my canine that used to scratch the base of his tail no longer did so! I realized, he was scratching the base of his tail because that's where we put the Frontline or Advantage on him and it was too toxic for him! :o(

Fleas prey on unhealthy animals, just as wolves and other predators prey on the weakest or sick animals. Keeping our companions optimally healthy, naturally, keeps their immune systems strong which makes them unattractive to parasites such as fleas.

Each spring, 4 or 5 of our 17 outdoor country cats and feral rescues will get fleas and bring them up under the house where they propagate. I have noted the ones that DO get fleas are the least active ones. Our best hunting cats, who are known to travel 1/4 mile down our stream road (we have NO neighbors) NEVER get fleas.

Mind you, our great Pyrenees livestock guardian dog roams the acreage with the livestock and never gets fleas, nor do the other canines.

The quickest, easiest way to deal with fleas, ticks, termites, japanese beetles, (and other yucky pests) is to spray beneficial (parasitic) nematodes into the lawn, gardens, and outdoor areas that are usually kept moist. You can find beneficial/parasitic nematodes at some garden nurseries or purchase online. Beneficial nematodes will parasitize flea larvae which prevents them from hatching. At the same time, sprinkle Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) on the pet(s) who has adult fleas and/or ticks. Lightly, but thoroughly, get the DE throughout their fur. It will kill adult fleas and ticks within 24-72 hours of the flea(s) coming in contact with the DE. Make sure you buy food grade diatomaceous earth, NOT the pool filter grade which is heat and chemically treated and is TOXIC if ingested.

To make flea and tick treatment successful, it is imperative that everything is treated all at the same time, the dog, cat, or other pet; the yard; the bedding; the household, if the animal is an indoor pet. If you are diligent in treatment with the diatomaceous earth and the beneficial nematodes in the yard or acreage, you can expect a flea and/or tick infestation to be eliminated within 3 weeks. NOTE: Beneficial/parasitic nematodes parasitize flea larvae, tick eggs, fly larvae, termites, grubs, and a huge array of soil dwelling pests, BUT once their food supply is gone, they die and therefore may need reapplication in the warmer months - possibly twice during the flea and tick season.

The reason everything must be treated at once is because ONLY 5 to 15% of the flea and/or tick infestation that you see are the adult fleas and ticks. The remaining 85 to 95% of your flea and tick infestation are the flea larvae and tick eggs that have not yet hatched!! :O( Thus, in order to completely eliminate a flea/tick infestation, everything and every affected pet must be treated at the same time for lasting effectiveness.

Of course, bathing your pet and/or combing any fleas and ticks out of your pet's fur/skin is beneficial as well.

When we take in tiny feral kitten rescues, they often have freeways of fleas running around their little tummies. IF I attempted to bathe the kittens, they would likely attempt to kill me, which would create undue stress on both of us and then likely they would never come near a human again, which would make it extremely difficult to get them adopted out! A few years ago, I started confining these tiny feral kittens to one room of the house. I dunked their little bodies into a 5 gallon bucket of food grade diatomaceous earth, put some diatomaceous earth in their litter box as well (helps to keep it dry and odor free, besides giving them some diatomaceous earth on their legs every time they potty). I dust them with food grade DE twice/week and within 2 to 3 weeks, ALL of the fleas are gone and they do not propagate in the house. I do try to comb them once/week or so, just so I can see how many fleas they still have, but combing tiny feral kittens is difficult and their little elbows, armpits, etc. are nearly impossible to get fleas out of with a comb and they generally don't take to kindly to being turned over on their backs by a strange human.

Since they have fleas, I also feed them a teaspoon of food grade diatomaceous earth in their food each day. They always have lots of tapeworm segments on their hind end fur, following the first day of dosing them with DE and continuing for a week or so thereafter. Recommended feeding rates for 4-5 week old kittens is only 1/2 teaspoon, but since they are infested with fleas, I know they will be infested with tapes, so I increase the dose to 1 tsp., sometimes just a bit more to make sure it is effective.

If you travel frequently with your pet and until you get their immune system strong and healthy, we recommend spraying with a natural flea and tick repellent spray that can be sprayed well into their underbelly, armpit, and other areas to prevent the fleas/ticks from hopping on them when you are taking them for walks in areas that fleas and ticks are abundant, but otherwise, if they just stay home in your house and yard, spraying the yard with parasitic/beneficial nematodes and putting food grade DE on them when they have adult fleas and ticks (tho we still recommend checking your pets daily for ticks to prevent lyme disease), as well as their bedding, and inside the home (IF fleas/ticks are a problem there) will take care of your infestation within 2 to 3 weeks.

The bottom line goal is not just to treat fleas/ticks or dis-ease, but to effect a permanent CURE. Holistic methods can do this, whereas traditional man made medicines usually only effect a temporary relief from illness or dis-ease.

Healthy animals rarely succumb to disease, illness, or bad behaviors. When they do, they bounce back quicker than unhealthy animals. They get plenty of exercise, sunshine, love, tender loving care, natural rearing foods that are biologically appropriate to the specific animal, clean environments, mental exercise in the way of proper, appropriate training, and avoidance of toxins. They have jobs to keep them busy, whether watching the house while we are gone or making sure the couch or cats don't get eaten while we are away. They are part of our family. Often, they are better than a few humans in our immediate family and deserve the BEST possible health care we can give them.

This site is dedicated to all animals and their guardians. Whether you are here to find information and links to research holistic methods or just browsing, please feel free to linger as long as you wish.

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